Lately

Quince Slatko

Yesterday I made a few pints of Eastern European-style quince preserves called slatko or varenye (slatko od dunja, варенье из айвы). Look at that color! It’s a very simple recipe: just quince, sugar, water, and lemon, with a little finely minced dried cranberries for added […]

Mince Pie

Mincemeat pie made with Granny Smith apples and persimmon jelly; dried cranberries, apricots, plums, figs; candied ginger and orange; walnuts and my medlar-infused brandy. Lots of butter (in lieu of tallow, which I don’t have) and spices too! Second photo is of two little blackberry […]

Celery on Marketplace

I had a wonderful opportunity to talk to Molly Wood on Marketplace about that wacky Victorian celery craze! The interview is after the photo (I’m at around 3:45).

Fruity Booze

I’m up to my ears in medieval fruits so I’ve started a half gallon each of quince ratafia with vodka (left) and medlar liqueur with brandy (right). These are my own recipes based loosely on 16th- and 17th-century cookbooks I’ve read. #booze #historic #tipple #quince […]

Guanciale (oh, oh)

(To the tune of “Volare”) Got my guanciale hung in the very sophisticated curing setup in my basement (the basement is 60F and 61% humidity, which isn’t too bad). Not pictured is the small, weak fan blowing a gentle breeze in the guanciale’s general direction. […]

Great British Game Pie

The (Head) Cheese Stands Alone

I had quite the adventure when I realized that the bag of pork skin I’d pulled from the freezer was actually a whole deboned pig’s head. Got quite a bit of action out of that guy. I ended up making my first guanciale AND my […]

Persimmon Season

Was just revisiting some old Instagram posts to find inspiration for using persimmons. This one was particularly sublime.   Tails & Trotters pork tenderloin with caramelized onions, apples and persimmons and a red ale reduction; pumpkin risotto with home-cured bacon lardons. Not pictured: green salad […]

Spam Musubi Fried Rice

Cassoulet

Toulouse-style cassoulet: Dear lord, what an undertaking. Even if I *hadn’t* accidentally unearthed a whole pig’s head to add to my weekend workload, cassoulet is a fucking Project. I simplified it somewhat to spare myself the trauma: making what is basically French tare saves a […]