Lemon Poppy Seed Tea Cake

There’s nothing as wonderful as citrus in the winter, is there? My recipe for this light and fragrant cake is after the jump, plus a variation to make an orange cake. Another tea cake! Lemon poppyseed, a pretty ordinary (but underappreciated) combo, improved by buttermilk […]

Pear-Almond Tea Cake

Tea cakes continue to be my favorite cakes to bake, and here’s a really nice one. This is a pear-almond tea cake made with one very ripe, asymmetric pear from last week’s @imperfectproduce box and chopped roasted almonds, flavored with a spoonful of @clearcreekdistillery pear […]

Portland’s Vice Clique Scandal Began in a Gents-Only Dining Room

Illustration by Levi Hastings

I touched on this subject a little in Portland: A Food Biography, and was happy to write about it a bit more for the Portland Mercury. The Louvre was the original home of the nude portrait that currently hangs behind the bar at Jake’s Famous Crawfish, and thanks to its swanky gentlemen’s dining room (and not-so-discreet gay owner), it was also a major cruising site for Portland’s homosexual underground.

Romanesco-White Cheddar Chowder

Romanesco: are you a broccoli? A cauliflower? You’re a biracial superfood and I love you. This is romanesco-white cheddar chowder with homemade guanciale, topped with chives and parsley from the garden and a dribble of olive oil from @houseofspain_evoo 🥦 🧀 🍖 🍲#soupweather #winterfood #soup […]

Vietnamese Foie Gras Dirty Rice

Vietnamese and Creole flavors play so well together, especially when foie gras is invited to the party.   Here’s a big serving of foie gras dirty rice made with duck stock, jasmine rice, and Vietnamese flavors: fish sauce, palm sugar, a little cinnamon (just a […]

Semihomemade Manduguk

It’s a Mystery: A History

What is up with people’s fascination with foods disguised as other things? I tackle that question in my latest piece for Taste.

Dandan Chili Dog

Look, I know this looks ridiculous, but if Cincinnati can put chili on spaghetti then I can put dandan topping on a hot dog.   I totally did the thing: dandan chili dog using Nicky Farms ground wild boar and lots of garlic and Lao […]


This is such a deceptively simple dish to make, provided you have a well-supplied larder. For the ragu, I browned ground Nicky Farms wild boar (pork would work, obviously) with a little bit of sesame oil, a few cloves of minced garlic, finely diced zha cai (pickled mustard stems) along with pickled Chinese mustard greens (both homemade), Lao Gan Ma Chili Crisp (available at Chinese grocery stores and larger supermarkets; you can also use regular chile oil), a pinch of homemade five-spice and ground Sichuan peppercorns. Then I added a cup or so of smoky pork stock (chicken stock would work too), a glug each of Shaoxing wine and soy sauce, and simmered for about 15 minutes. Lastly I added sliced scallions and I served it over cooked spaghetti (don’t @ me — the Chinese invented the shit) with a little bok choy for health.

Toasted Cheese and Tomato Soup

This is why I grow and can so many tomatoes: to improve my cheese toast intake.   When you receive a gift of homemade cheese bread, there are worse things you could do than melting even more cheese on it to dip into heirloom tomato […]