Who says a Dutch baby must be a sweet vehicle for jam and syrup? Not that there’s anything inherently wrong with that, it’s just a little predictable. With a base so eggy, it may as well be an omelet. Once it’s deflated like some kind of sad balloon, it’s just as flat as any regular pancake, but the egg does keep it tender and the edges are still crispy and browned, with all that Maillard-y goodness. I do love sweet and savory together, though, so I thought I’d scratch both itches with this take on a Monte Cristo.
A Monte Cristo is a beautiful thing; a stoner’s wet dream. Why eat a perfectly wonderful ham and cheese sandwich when you can eat an even more wonderful fried ham and cheese sandwich? I’ve had them every way possible: grilled simply in butter like an embellished toasted cheese; I’ve had sliced ham and Swiss served between two pillows of French toast; and I’ve had the whole affair dunked in egg batter and fried whole. They’re each lovely, truly, but this iteration performs the additional duty of being dead simple to make.
Here, I took the basic batter (2 eggs, 1/2 cup milk, 1/2 cup flour), left out the sugar, and added a handful of grated sharp cheddar and finely diced ham. In a cast iron skillet, cook the ham in about two tablespoons of butter or bacon fat (or both, like I did) and then dump in the batter. Let it sit on the stove for a minute, then pop it in a 425 degree oven for 13 minutes or so, until it’s all golden and puffed and breathtaking. Watch it deflate like so many of your girlhood hopes and dreams, and then slice that disappointment right up and dust it with powdered sugar.
I suppose if you’re sensitive about these things — or Kosher, heaven forbid — you could leave out the ham and use a few handfuls of wilted spinach, or some sauteed mushrooms. You could use a different cheese, if that’s what you have. Ooh, I bet chorizo and diced potato would be something pretty special, too. They make good vegetarian chorizo, don’t they? Oh, they don’t? Oh, well.
(I suppose someone will helpfully chime in with some mention of “soyrizo” or some other such abomination, to which I’ll reply, “no thank you.” I asked for good vegetarian chorizo, which was really a trick question, because we all know there’s no such thing.)
I do still love the sweet Dutch babies, though. I decided to whip up a double batch today, because my baby boy has pinkeye and nothing says “I care about ocular health” like plying a two year-old with tiny, muffin-sized Dutch babies slathered in homemade blueberry-elderflower jam and Meyer lemon marmalade. Just use the same, simple batter, but add 1/4 cup of sugar. You could stir in a little citrus zest or vanilla, if you fancy. Heat a muffin tin in the oven with about 1/2 teaspoon or so of butter in each hole and once the butter’s melted just pour the batter in, filling each depression as evenly as you can without worrying too much. Then bake for about 10-12 minutes, or whenever they’re requisitely golden and puffy. Even when they fizzle out, they’re still so cute and lovable with that little blob of jam in the middle, aren’t they? They kind of remind me of how a sea anemone looks when you tickle its tentacles. It recoils into itself, embarrassed that it mistook your finger for a little oceanic detritus, leaving its soft, flabby neck and that shallow indentation on top where it’s turned itself inside out.
I bet a dollop of jam would really cheer up an embarrassed sea anemone.
My girls love Dutch Babies and I love Monte Cristo (but I have not had one of those in years)! Both versions look easy – I need the inspiration for school-day breakfasts. Thanks, Heather!
not one but TWO fantastic ideas for Dutch babies! bam! (to quote someone) seriously: we have been eating Dutch babies a few times a week. I think we shall have ham & cheese style as soon as I can procure some good ham.
one thing though: I think my typical Dutch baby recipe — whose provenance is not exactly farmhouse authenticity (Orangette’s food memoir-with-recipes) — has four eggs, 1/2 c milk, 1/2 c flour. I wonder how the final product differs? maybe we should do some test kitchen work. soon.
These look delicious! And your narrative was highly entertaining.
oooh that really is just precious! with a name like ‘dutch baby’, too, how perfect!
Thanks! Plus, when they’re small, it’s not that big a deal that you ate ten of them by yourself.
What a fantastic idea! Both the savory version and the mini sweet ones!
This looks wonderful! Dumb question (I’ve never made these)–when do you add the jam, before or after cooking? I’m thinking it’s before, but I’m not sure???
Nah, just serve them with a dollop of jam on top when they’re done.
They are sooo cute! And look like they would taste wonderful. Your narrative just cracked me up. Thanks for sharing!
i think the mini ones are creative and cute too!
Hi Heather—Just started reading your blog via Amy & Jonny–now I find myself making a point of reading your responses to their posts and theirs to you–often so funny, always honest and informative–you are all such impressive writers–and original, to say the least–looking forward to reading some archives next.
Deb
false!! there’s some AMAZING vegetarian chorizo out there. i am not being sarcastic!!!!
i tried a dutch baby with some leftover prosciutto chunks and parmesan and it was so good. and i see you add 1/4 cup sugar to the sweet version…i’ve always seen recipes that list only 1 tablespoon of sugar or none at all and subsequently i’ve always been disappointed with the flavor of the batter itself. guess i was just under-seasoning…