Beans and Pulses

Warm Bulghur Salad

A warm, nutritious autumn salad of whole red bulgur and French green lentils with roasted homegrown bitterroot buttercup squash, purple carrots, king oyster mushroom, chioggia beet, red onion, garlic, and a sweet-hot cayenne from last night’s @culinarybreedingnetwork party, plus a little kale and hummus. I […]

America’s Oldest Tofu-Ten

I wrote about the history of Ota Tofu for Roads & Kingdoms. They’ve been in Portland for more than a century.     I wrote about the history of America’s oldest tofu-ten and Portland’s Nikkei for @roadsandkingdoms (link in bio) #tofu #portlandoregon #culinaryhistory #japanese A […]

Doro Whit

Teeny doro wat with @maryschicken Cornish game hen and quail eggs; yekik alicha (yellow split pea stew); yabesha gomen using my @imperfectproduce Swiss chard; and itty bitty injeras. The injera is hella from scratch: ground @bobsredmill teff grains and fermented the batter for four days. […]

Wild Boar Mapo Tofu

You can make this quickly by using store-bought Sichuan chile oil, but it’s also nice to mace yourself toasting Sichuan peppercorns and facing heaven chiles in your wok to make mala oil from scratch. Nicky Farms ground wild boar mapo tofu, because sometimes you need […]

They’re Not Always Green

Half of the legumes I’m growing this year are purple or speckled with pretty red splotches. The heat always turns them back to green, though. Fabaceous lovelies from the garden: Royal Burgundy beans, snow peas, shelled purple-podded peas, and young cranberry beans (slivered, shells and […]

Yellow split-pea soup with mint pistou

Yellow split pea soup with ham and a pistou of mint, pea shoots, and pistachio oil, because HOLY SHIT, SPRING, transitions are hard. Best served with torrential downpours, Pinot Gris, and Swedish folk rock. #dinnertonight #springtime #soupweather . . . . #soup #splitpea #comfortfood #f52grams […]

Yankee Succotash

Yes, spring is here in Portland, but hanging-on cloudy days have me clamoring for earth tones.  I’ve always preferred muted earth tones and rich jewel tones, and even though I should be eating piles of sweet green pea tendrils and fennel bulbs, I don’t mind […]

Ukrainian Borscht with Pancetta and Juniper

Many foods are evocative of one’s place of peasant origin, of one’s mother-tongue. When done properly, the mere smell of these foods has the power to bring a grown man to his blubbering knees, felled by memories of hiding shy behind grandma’s apron. Borscht is […]

Elk Chili

I have the good fortune of having been born into a family of prolific hunters (read: unemployed men with guns).  My dad uses this as currency, bartering venison for visits with his grandson. He can never simply tell me he wants to see Zephyr. Instead, […]

Sopa del mezcolanza

…or, “hodgepodge soup”. Yeah, I’ve already failed at meeting my once-a-week blogging quota. And I don’t fucking care! God, it’s so liberating to just admit that instead of apologizing and making excuses. I have been cooking here and there, but nothing new or interesting. I […]