Classical and Eurotrashical

Persimmon Season

Was just revisiting some old Instagram posts to find inspiration for using persimmons. This one was particularly sublime.   Tails & Trotters pork tenderloin with caramelized onions, apples and persimmons and a red ale reduction; pumpkin risotto with home-cured bacon lardons. Not pictured: green salad […]

German Yakisoba is a Thing, You Guys

You guys, I made German yakisoba. ??? Let me back up: I started with Nicky Farms’ incredible wild boar/pork caraway-dill sausage, roasted in a quickie choucroute garnis with Savoy cabbage and the juice/garlic/spices from my homemade sour dill pickles, fried onions and horseradish from my […]

Yu Choy Gratin

Fact: all crucifers taste really great with cheese sauce. Broccoli, cauliflower, doesn’t matter! They’re made for each other. Here’s leftover mushroomy Gruyère Mornay sauce with leftover romanesco and yu choy baked with bread crumbs (made from leftover baguette) strewn over the top. To serve with […]

Wild Mushroom Rarebit

One of my Facebook friends asked (in a tone I didn’t care for) “Why do folk insist on calling it ‘rarebit?’ It’s ‘rabbit.’ Mock rabbit, pointing out that the Welsh couldn’t be expected to have actual rabbit. Tons of cultural history in the word. ‘Rarebit’ […]

Stuffed Peppers

  Stuffed peppers with Nicky Farms ground beef, jasmine rice, home-canned tomatoes and Balkan spices, because even though it’s been a warm and easy glide into fall, I’m kind of ready to dive into dinners from the oven. #dinnertonight #meatconcierge #peppers ? ? ? ? […]

Pelmeni with Chanterelles and Salicornia

Store-bought pelmeni from the Russian market make a fast phone-in dinner, but serving them en brodo with wild things makes it special. Beef pelmeni in a reduction of beef/rabbit/duck stock (deglazed the pan first with my homemade Doug-fir eau de vie), with Misty Mountain chanterelles […]

Huber’s

I usually get the open-faced hot turkey sandwich (it’s covered in gravy and comes with stuffing or mashed potatoes), but I thought I’d try something new this time. It was fine, but next time I think I’ll stick with the yoozh. Huber’s has been serving […]

Water Buffalo Barbari Bread

Fresh zucchini blossoms and garlic flowers look pretty and belie this dish’s utter simplicity. Locally raised Nicky Farms water buffalo tastes to me like a slightly more iron-rich bison, making it a natural fit for bold Middle Eastern spices. Here I’ve browned it in a […]

Greengage

Greengages are an old plum that came to England from France, where they were called Reine Claude. In Germany, where they are much relished, they’re called Reneklode. “[W]hen quality alone is considered,” wrote nineteenth-century horticulturist Charles Mason Hovey, “the Green Gage must carry off the […]

A Brief History of Tuna Casserole

I wrote a spirited defense (and history) of tuna casserole for Taste. Check it out!