Classical and Eurotrashical

Pelmeni with Chanterelles and Salicornia

Store-bought pelmeni from the Russian market make a fast phone-in dinner, but serving them en brodo with wild things makes it special. Beef pelmeni in a reduction of beef/rabbit/duck stock (deglazed the pan first with my homemade Doug-fir eau de vie), with Misty Mountain chanterelles […]

Huber’s

I usually get the open-faced hot turkey sandwich (it’s covered in gravy and comes with stuffing or mashed potatoes), but I thought I’d try something new this time. It was fine, but next time I think I’ll stick with the yoozh. Huber’s has been serving […]

Water Buffalo Barbari Bread

Fresh zucchini blossoms and garlic flowers look pretty and belie this dish’s utter simplicity. Locally raised Nicky Farms water buffalo tastes to me like a slightly more iron-rich bison, making it a natural fit for bold Middle Eastern spices. Here I’ve browned it in a […]

Greengage

Greengages are an old plum that came to England from France, where they were called Reine Claude. In Germany, where they are much relished, they’re called Reneklode. “[W]hen quality alone is considered,” wrote nineteenth-century horticulturist Charles Mason Hovey, “the Green Gage must carry off the […]

A Brief History of Tuna Casserole

I wrote a spirited defense (and history) of tuna casserole for Taste. Check it out!

Leftovers Surprise

Had some leftover creamed peas and favas from @laurelhurstmarket (and the cream, spinach, and pancetta left from the mussels), so I did what I do best: hacked the shit out of that stuff into a whole new meal! Cooked a little orecchiette, Vietnamese melon, bolting […]

Yellow split-pea soup with mint pistou

Yellow split pea soup with ham and a pistou of mint, pea shoots, and pistachio oil, because HOLY SHIT, SPRING, transitions are hard. Best served with torrential downpours, Pinot Gris, and Swedish folk rock. #dinnertonight #springtime #soupweather . . . . #soup #splitpea #comfortfood #f52grams […]

Dutch baby Monte Cristo

Who says a Dutch baby must be a sweet vehicle for jam and syrup? Not that there’s anything inherently wrong with that, it’s just a little predictable. With a base so eggy, it may as well be an omelet. Once it’s deflated like some kind […]

Obi non and news

I always fiddle with ingredients and dishes, but rarely (I hope) to the point that they are unrecognizable by their forebears. This breakfast is one of those rare failures at respectful fusion: a tender Uzbek obi non; an ancient flatbread baked in a clay¬†tandir — […]

Pizza Bolognese

Sorry for the dead air for the past…oh, my. It’s been a month. I’ve got a lot of irons in the fire right now (including some projects for print), and this just fell off my radar. But it’s summer! And the garden is full! This […]