Soapbox

Wild Mushroom Rarebit

One of my Facebook friends asked (in a tone I didn’t care for) “Why do folk insist on calling it ‘rarebit?’ It’s ‘rabbit.’ Mock rabbit, pointing out that the Welsh couldn’t be expected to have actual rabbit. Tons of cultural history in the word. ‘Rarebit’ […]

The Celery Incident

I’m kind of losing it because food editor Sam Sifton shouted out my celery piece in the New York Times‘ “What to Cook Tonight” today. The food editor of the New York Times. He recommended something I wrote. /faints

Buffalo Ribeye Flatbreads

Grilled Nicky Farms bison ribeye with grilled flatbread; a gremolata of carrot tops, mint, and lovage flowers (all from the garden), lemon juice and garlic; quick-pickled ramps and green strawberries; opal basil flowers, parsley flowers, and salad burnet from the garden; purple cauliflower and carrot […]

The Four Top: Episode 20

How have grocery stores changed, and what will they look like in the future? Will cured meat and raw milk really kill you? And have celebrity chef shows grown more serious? Listen to “The Four Top” on Spreaker. Episode 20 of “The Four Top” from June […]

Put Down the Pitchforks and Pick Up the Corn Dogs

Shit’s been getting pretty real in Portland food media lately. The sudden closure of a two-Becky-owned burrito joint has caused indignant accusations of cultural appropriation (both from the “how dare you, sir” and “what’s the big deal” sides), widening the rift between SJWs and white supremacists. […]

Rabbit Jambalaya

BIG ANNOUNCEMENT YOU GUYS! I’m now creating content and developing recipes for @nicky.usa’s new retail line! So I get to play with lots of beautiful meats and share with you all the dishes I come up with! For my first post, I wanted to use […]

Hustle and Dough

A new documentary about James Beard omits two of the most important people in his life: his family’s private chef, Jue Let, and his BFF, fellow cookbook author and highly underrated food writer Helen Evans Brown. Otherwise, a fine biography. Read my review of the film James […]

Final Fantasy is Reality

My latest piece is live in the Portland Mercury!

Pork cheek confit with caramelized turnip and apples

Spring has indeed sprung, yet I always find myself at this time of year with a certain yen for autumnal things. Pomes and root vegetables; meats cooked to shredded perfection, their connective stuff all pulverized (by time, or pressure) to gelatin. These are good things, […]