Portland’s Vice Clique Scandal Began in a Gents-Only Dining Room

I touched on this subject a little in Portland: A Food Biography, and was happy to write about it a bit more for the Portland Mercury. The Louvre was the original home of the nude portrait that currently hangs behind the bar at Jake’s Famous 

It’s a Mystery: A History

What is up with people’s fascination with foods disguised as other things? I tackle that question in my latest piece for Taste.

Taste Top Stories of 2017

I’m extremely flattered that Taste has included two of my stories in their Top Stories of 2017 and three of them in their 15 Favorite Food and Drink Histories!

Not Ready for This Jelly

Molly and Kai had me back on Make Me Smart to make a prediction for 2018! You heard it here first, folks: aspic is going to make a comeback.  

Interview with the Galloping Gourmet

HOLY FUCKING SHIT they actually let me talk to this guy. Quick clarification: the comparison to Guy Fieri was identified by my editor Matt Rodbard (saliently, I might add), and it’s not meant as an insult. Like Fieri, Graham Kerr enjoyed wide appeal from a 

Fire and Mushrooms

I wrote about fire ecology and mushroom-hunting for Fish & Game Quarterly. I’ve been kind of worried that the piece comes off a bit glib, since the rains have not yet begun in California and real danger yet looms, but my intent was for encouragement 

Wild Mushroom Rarebit

One of my Facebook friends asked (in a tone I didn’t care for) “Why do folk insist on calling it ‘rarebit?’ It’s ‘rabbit.’ Mock rabbit, pointing out that the Welsh couldn’t be expected to have actual rabbit. Tons of cultural history in the word. ‘Rarebit’ 

The Celery Incident

I’m kind of losing it because food editor Sam Sifton shouted out my celery piece in the New York Times‘ “What to Cook Tonight” today. The food editor of the New York Times. He recommended something I wrote. /faints

Buffalo Ribeye Flatbreads

Grilled Nicky Farms bison ribeye with grilled flatbread; a gremolata of carrot tops, mint, and lovage flowers (all from the garden), lemon juice and garlic; quick-pickled ramps and green strawberries; opal basil flowers, parsley flowers, and salad burnet from the garden; purple cauliflower and carrot 

The Four Top: Episode 20

How have grocery stores changed, and what will they look like in the future? Will cured meat and raw milk really kill you? And have celebrity chef shows grown more serious? Listen to “The Four Top” on Spreaker. Episode 20 of “The Four Top” from June