Greengages are an old plum that came to England from France, where they were called Reine Claude. In Germany, where they are much relished, they’re called Reneklode. “[W]hen quality alone is considered,” wrote nineteenth-century horticulturist Charles Mason Hovey, “the Green Gage must carry off the […]
Gilding the Lily since 2006
I wrote a spirited defense (and history) of tuna casserole for Taste. Check it out!
How have grocery stores changed, and what will they look like in the future? Will cured meat and raw milk really kill you? And have celebrity chef shows grown more serious? Listen to “The Four Top” on Spreaker. Episode 20 of “The Four Top” from June […]
I wrote a thing for Eater on some of the oldest joints in Portland. They’re not all ones you’ve heard of, either! Check it out here. Hopefully they’ll let me add more at some point — there are a ton more I’d have loved to have […]
A new documentary about James Beard omits two of the most important people in his life: his family’s private chef, Jue Let, and his BFF, fellow cookbook author and highly underrated food writer Helen Evans Brown. Otherwise, a fine biography. Read my review of the film James […]
Top five favorite school hot lunches, in no particular order: Garfield-style lasagna, square pan pizza (squishy crust), chickenwiches, PPS-style dirty water dogs, and chicken a là king. The last of these is a dish that originated on the East Coast in the 1880s, with various […]
I wrote a thing for Eater on the history of hotel dining in Portland, and the new joints opening in the old hotel restaurants.