History

Wild Mushroom Rarebit

One of my Facebook friends asked (in a tone I didn’t care for) “Why do folk insist on calling it ‘rarebit?’ It’s ‘rabbit.’ Mock rabbit, pointing out that the Welsh couldn’t be expected to have actual rabbit. Tons of cultural history in the word. ‘Rarebit’ […]

America’s Oldest Tofu-Ten

I wrote about the history of Ota Tofu for Roads & Kingdoms. They’ve been in Portland for more than a century.     I wrote about the history of America’s oldest tofu-ten and Portland’s Nikkei for @roadsandkingdoms (link in bio) #tofu #portlandoregon #culinaryhistory #japanese A […]

The Celery Incident

I’m kind of losing it because food editor Sam Sifton shouted out my celery piece in the New York Times‘ “What to Cook Tonight” today. The food editor of the New York Times. He recommended something I wrote. /faints

Huber’s

I usually get the open-faced hot turkey sandwich (it’s covered in gravy and comes with stuffing or mashed potatoes), but I thought I’d try something new this time. It was fine, but next time I think I’ll stick with the yoozh. Huber’s has been serving […]

Celery Was the Avocado Toast of the Victorian Era

Did you know that celery was the avocado toast of the Victorian Era? I wrote all about it for Taste.

Greengage

Greengages are an old plum that came to England from France, where they were called Reine Claude. In Germany, where they are much relished, they’re called Reneklode. “[W]hen quality alone is considered,” wrote nineteenth-century horticulturist Charles Mason Hovey, “the Green Gage must carry off the […]

A Brief History of Tuna Casserole

I wrote a spirited defense (and history) of tuna casserole for Taste. Check it out!

The Four Top: Episode 20

How have grocery stores changed, and what will they look like in the future? Will cured meat and raw milk really kill you? And have celebrity chef shows grown more serious? Listen to “The Four Top” on Spreaker. Episode 20 of “The Four Top” from June […]

31 of Portland’s Oldest Restaurants

I wrote a thing for Eater on some of the oldest joints in Portland. They’re not all ones you’ve heard of, either! Check it out here. Hopefully they’ll let me add more at some point — there are a ton more I’d have loved to have […]

Hustle and Dough

A new documentary about James Beard omits two of the most important people in his life: his family’s private chef, Jue Let, and his BFF, fellow cookbook author and highly underrated food writer Helen Evans Brown. Otherwise, a fine biography. Read my review of the film James […]