Middle Eastern

Water Buffalo Barbari Bread

Fresh zucchini blossoms and garlic flowers look pretty and belie this dish’s utter simplicity. Locally raised Nicky Farms water buffalo tastes to me like a slightly more iron-rich bison, making it a natural fit for bold Middle Eastern spices. Here I’ve browned it in a […]

Shakshouka: or, What to Have Instead of Brain Cakes

From Phillis Browne’s The Dictionary of Dainty Breakfasts (London: Cassell, 1899). Warning: this recipe may be a bit cloying. According to Phillis Browne (the nom-de-plume of 19th-century sports journalist Arthur Gay Payne), breakfast should consist of the following: a) a fundamental dish; b) “trifling accessories… […]

Homemade Labneh

A month or so ago, I did a cooking demo for Stonyfield yogurt, and ended up with 4 quarts of plain, nonfat Greek yogurt, with an aggressively impending expiration date. At first I tried just slipping it into everything: burritos! salad dressing! cornbread! But eventually […]