Lately

Fire and Mushrooms

I wrote about fire ecology and mushroom-hunting for Fish & Game Quarterly. I’ve been kind of worried that the piece comes off a bit glib, since the rains have not yet begun in California and real danger yet looms, but my intent was for encouragement […]

California Roll Chirashisushi

HONKINESS. California roll-style chirashisushi sounded really good to me, because I love the honkiness of a California roll but was just feeling too lazy to roll maki. I topped stovetop Calrose rice (seasoned with rice vinegar, sugar, salt) with surimi, a brunoise of cucumber and […]

German Yakisoba is a Thing, You Guys

You guys, I made German yakisoba. ??? Let me back up: I started with Nicky Farms’ incredible wild boar/pork caraway-dill sausage, roasted in a quickie choucroute garnis with Savoy cabbage and the juice/garlic/spices from my homemade sour dill pickles, fried onions and horseradish from my garden. Then I pan-fried @umiorganic noodles in bacon fat with caraway seeds and tossed it all together. I told like five different people about this idea and got crickets each time ? but I’m here to tell you THIS SHIT WORKED and I’M NOT CRAZY. The earthy chewiness that comes from the barley in Lola’s noodles plays really well with the aggressive flavors of kraut and sausage. This versatile sausage is labeled as “Russian recipe” but works like a dream with German flavors. #itoldyouso #inthenoodz #meatconcierge #germanfood #fusion #choucroute #cabbage #ramen #noodles #kraut #sauerkraut #yakisoba #instayum #instafood #food52 #foodgawker #foodstagram #sausage #wildboar #pork #eatwild

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Budae Jigae Wid It

It’s so delightfully crummy out so I made budae jigae for myself using *nice* ingredients like @umiorganic noodles, @olympiaprovisions hot dogs, Ota tofu, homemade kimchi and heirloom beans. The dashi is instant, but it’s still some fancy high-end stuff from Japan. The SPAM… is just […]

Simple is Best

@maryschicken seasoned simply with @nicky.usa game salt and roasted with all the cold-weather vegetables: parsnips, cabbage, shallots, potatoes, and the last half of the bitterroot buttercup squash, all roasted sticky-brown in the chicken drippings. Green olives and lemons in the pan, too. Served it with […]

Taco Salad

Autumn Ramen

Made some really delicious vegetarianish autumn ramen with @umiorganic noodles and tempura (kabocha-like bitterroot buttercup squash, purple sweet potato, shiitake, pumpkin blossom, onion, and green bean in simple rice flour/seltzer batter). Broth is smoky-sweet and concentrated; rich chicken stock seasoned with tentsuyu (use mushroom broth […]

Yu Choy Gratin

Fact: all crucifers taste really great with cheese sauce. Broccoli, cauliflower, doesn’t matter! They’re made for each other. Here’s leftover mushroomy Gruyère Mornay sauce with leftover romanesco and yu choy baked with bread crumbs (made from leftover baguette) strewn over the top. To serve with […]

Wild Mushroom Rarebit

One of my Facebook friends asked (in a tone I didn’t care for) “Why do folk insist on calling it ‘rarebit?’ It’s ‘rabbit.’ Mock rabbit, pointing out that the Welsh couldn’t be expected to have actual rabbit. Tons of cultural history in the word. ‘Rarebit’ attempts to avoid it all.”

Well, it’s been called rarebit for about two and half centuries, which is certainly long enough to make it stick in any language. That it’s a (possibly intentional) corruption of a sort of shitty term doesn’t really change that. It’d only been called ‘rabbit’ for sixty years before the corruption emerged. Should we keep calling makrut lime “kaffir lime” out of tradition, even though the word is offensive?

Figgy Pudding

This is especially nice rewarmed as a coffee cake to serve for breakfast. Warm figgy bundt cake made with puréed roasted figs that I froze back in July, studded with pistachios, glazed with honey and melted butter, and topped with a diced brown turkey fig […]