Orecchiette with pancetta, asparagus, peas and lemon balm

It’s so good to be back in my kitchen, I can’t even tell you. After the nettle dinner (those 24 things are so much work!) I was in the dry, dusty field for a week (botanical surveys in the western Central Valley, California), and spent …

Sweet potato salad with green tomato pickle relish

This is supposed to be about the sweet potato salad, but I really want to talk about the sandwich. Is it even okay to blog about a sandwich when I didn’t bake the bread or cure my own charcuterie? Is that allowed? We paid a …

Gratin Dauphinois

Gratin Dauphinois is a basic thing. So basic, in fact, that I can’t imagine any reason why people would eat the boxed shit. The garbage dehydrated crap isn’t even cheaper. Okay, I’ll admit that it is marginally easier to open a box and a couple …

Fideos in saffron-pimentón broth with mussels and linguiça

This is a variation on a dish I made awhile back, and though breaking up capellini to make a version of fideos seems more legit, I think the clams were a better addition than mussels. The problem with mussels (always) is that their thin shells …

Lasagna Bolognese

Lasagna always seems like such a fuss, and I’ll admit it, I usually just go for a frozen one. It always seems like too much work to make a real one, from scratch, and frozen ones aren’t that bad (if you avoid the orange grease …

Lemon-cornmeal ebelskivers with blackberry preserves

Scott and I were up so, so late last night, finishing an evening celebrating Norm‘s birthday with friends and 20-year old syrah that smelled like goat testicles (and Saxum Rocket Block (2005?) – a grenache that was like making out with black cherries and literally …

Swedish meatballs with buttered noodles and nutmeg gravy

Wow, what a week. Not even a (much-needed, and well-spent) paid holiday or a sexah new president could shake the funk of cold weather and crampy ladytimes. I made it to the gym again, to try to run off some of my shitty attitude, but …

Minestra al pomodoro e pesto

It’s finally soup weather. We’ve gotten back to the sodden, gloomy, winter weather that makes people slit their wrists when they move here. I love it. It’s damp and moldy, and it smells like warm compost and fecundity again after all that stupid Arctic Blast …

Salade Niçoise on Belgian endive

I picked up these beautiful little quail eggs at Fubonn. I was thinking of what little appie I could bring over to Carolyn’s house that wasn’t crackers and dip (she was making Amy Sedaris’ Lil’ Smoky Cheese Ball) or something that would require heating in …

Pannetone French toast with orange-bourbon syrup

…or, Special Christmas Breakfast I really haven’t gotten into the holiday spirit this year. No baking, no candy, nothing. I still have time to pretend I’m Russian, though, in which case the New Year celebration is more important. Technically, my people were German-Russian for a …