Soapbox

In the 1970s, Pizza Joints Pulled Out All the Stops

Remember eating pizza with your family while the dulcet tones of Pinball Wizard tore loose from a Wurlitzer pipe organ? The 1970s were real special times. I wrote about the Organ Grinder and the history of pipe organ pizza joints for Taste.

Sous Vide Venison and Warm Kamut Salad

This venison is ridiculously good, but the salad? Five stars, would visit again. Don’t look now, but Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Practice the gentle art of seduction by staying in to cook for that special someone (or #treatyoself) with this sexy plate: […]

Shio Koji-Aged Ranch Steak Sandwich is Best Steak Sandwich

I got this shio koji on Amazon, but will check Uwajimaya for a locally made koji for my next project. Beauty shots of the purty little shio koji-aged @creekstone_farms ranch steaks. Ranch steaks come from the chuck primal, and here I’ve aged them for three […]

Portland’s Vice Clique Scandal Began in a Gents-Only Dining Room

I touched on this subject a little in Portland: A Food Biography, and was happy to write about it a bit more for the Portland Mercury. The Louvre was the original home of the nude portrait that currently hangs behind the bar at Jake’s Famous […]

It’s a Mystery: A History

What is up with people’s fascination with foods disguised as other things? I tackle that question in my latest piece for Taste.

Taste Top Stories of 2017

I’m extremely flattered that Taste has included two of my stories in their Top Stories of 2017 and three of them in their 15 Favorite Food and Drink Histories!

Not Ready for This Jelly

Molly and Kai had me back on Make Me Smart to make a prediction for 2018! You heard it here first, folks: aspic is going to make a comeback.  

Interview with the Galloping Gourmet

HOLY FUCKING SHIT they actually let me talk to this guy. Quick clarification: the comparison to Guy Fieri was identified by my editor Matt Rodbard (saliently, I might add), and it’s not meant as an insult. Like Fieri, Graham Kerr enjoyed wide appeal from a […]

Fire and Mushrooms

I wrote about fire ecology and mushroom-hunting for Fish & Game Quarterly. I’ve been kind of worried that the piece comes off a bit glib, since the rains have not yet begun in California and real danger yet looms, but my intent was for encouragement […]

Wild Mushroom Rarebit

One of my Facebook friends asked (in a tone I didn’t care for) “Why do folk insist on calling it ‘rarebit?’ It’s ‘rabbit.’ Mock rabbit, pointing out that the Welsh couldn’t be expected to have actual rabbit. Tons of cultural history in the word. ‘Rarebit’ […]