Lately

Shio Koji-Aged Ranch Steak Sandwich is Best Steak Sandwich

I got this shio koji on Amazon, but will check Uwajimaya for a locally made koji for my next project. Beauty shots of the purty little shio koji-aged @creekstone_farms ranch steaks. Ranch steaks come from the chuck primal, and here I’ve aged them for three […]

Lemon Poppy Seed Tea Cake

There’s nothing as wonderful as citrus in the winter, is there? My recipe for this light and fragrant cake is after the jump, plus a variation to make an orange cake. Another tea cake! Lemon poppyseed, a pretty ordinary (but underappreciated) combo, improved by buttermilk […]

Pear-Almond Tea Cake

Portland’s Vice Clique Scandal Began in a Gents-Only Dining Room

I touched on this subject a little in Portland: A Food Biography, and was happy to write about it a bit more for the Portland Mercury. The Louvre was the original home of the nude portrait that currently hangs behind the bar at Jake’s Famous […]

Romanesco-White Cheddar Chowder

Romanesco: are you a broccoli? A cauliflower? You’re a biracial superfood and I love you. This is romanesco-white cheddar chowder with homemade guanciale, topped with chives and parsley from the garden and a dribble of olive oil from @houseofspain_evoo 🥦 🧀 🍖 🍲#soupweather #winterfood #soup […]

Vietnamese Foie Gras Dirty Rice

Vietnamese and Creole flavors play so well together, especially when foie gras is invited to the party.

 

Here’s a big serving of foie gras dirty rice made with duck stock, jasmine rice, and Vietnamese flavors: fish sauce, palm sugar, a little cinnamon (just a whisper), fried shallots and fresh herbs. I wanted to play in the intersection between France’s influence on Vietnamese and Creole cuisines, and I definitely think this is a success. I browned lap cheong, ground pork and gizzards in melted foie with onions, celery, garlic and peppers, then did the usual pilaf thing, folding I the diced livers and seared foie at the very end. I crisped the shallots up in the last bit of foie fat to sprinkle on top with the cilantro and scallions. 🍚 🦆 🍚 🦆 One of my favorite things about working with @nickyusa is that I will find random bags in my freezer labeled ‘giblets’ and have truly no idea what animal they’re from. Pheasant? Rabbit? God only knows. My other favorite thing about working with those dudes is that they will sometimes say “here, try this” while handing me a bag of @hudsonvalleyfoiegras cubes, and I can do with them any goofy little thing my little heart desires. 🦆 🍚 🦆 #meatconcierge #foiegras #nickyusa #duck #liver #dirtyrice #vietnamesefood #creolefood #rice #homecooking #food52 #foodgawker #foodstagram #food #f52grams #instayum #instafood #forkyeah #fusion #bareaders #saveur #lunch #dinner #instagood #buzzfeast #huffposttaste #thekitchn #buzzfeedfood

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Semihomemade Manduguk

Super fast manduguk for lunch, made by simmering sliced chonggak radish, tteok (rice cakes) and frozen store-bought mandu (dumplings) in homemade chicken/pork stock with a spoonful of instant dashi, a teeny bit of soy sauce, and a dribble of sesame oil. Sloppy shredded omelet “noodles” […]

It’s a Mystery: A History

What is up with people’s fascination with foods disguised as other things? I tackle that question in my latest piece for Taste.

Dandan Chili Dog

Look, I know this looks ridiculous, but if Cincinnati can put chili on spaghetti then I can put dandan topping on a hot dog.

 

Dandanmian

This is such a deceptively simple dish to make, provided you have a well-supplied larder. For the ragu, I browned ground Nicky Farms wild boar (pork would work, obviously) with a little bit of sesame oil, a few cloves of minced garlic, finely diced zha […]