Espresso ice cream
And introducing my favorite apron. I’ve had this little beaute since I was in college, and I used to love wearing it to work during my four+ years as a barista. Oh, man, I was a good barista. I hate to admit it now, but …
Gilding the Lily since 2006
And introducing my favorite apron. I’ve had this little beaute since I was in college, and I used to love wearing it to work during my four+ years as a barista. Oh, man, I was a good barista. I hate to admit it now, but …
When clams are fresh, as are these littlenecks that we picked up on our way from the beach yesterday, all they need is a quick steam over a bath of white wine, shallot and garlic… …and a loaf of crusty baguette with good Danish butter. …
Let me back up. We went to the beach today, as is our wont on 100+-degree days. Today, by some twist of full moon Twilight Zone disturbia, it took us about three hours to make the 80 mile drive to Seaside, or the “Coney Island of the Oregon Coast”, as I like to call it. When we crested the bluffs that overlook the mouth of the mighty Columbia and crossed Youngs Bay to make our way south from Astoria, we were met with cold, gray fog. Uncharacteristically optimistic, I mused that it was suddenly perfect weather for clam chowder. And clam chowder we sought.
But not before I got my sweet tooth on.
This store also boasts the largest selection of specialty sodas in the Universe, for better or worse. I love root beer ever so much, but many of these ones were too sweet and lacked the crisp sassafras bite. Did you know that while the root of Sassafras spp. is used for flavoring the beverage (hence, “root” beer), the ground, dried leaves are used to make filé, which is used as an alternative to roux for thickening gumbo.
Candy apples and chocolate-covered twinkies. Is there any better anti-depressant? This kid was so cute, pink cheeked and eager to please. He gave me a free sample of rocky road fudge (my favorite) after I asked if I could photograph him for my blog. If I were 15 years younger I would have such a huge crush on him. Teenagers having summer jobs in candy stores is a good vibe.
The friendly beach town is also the source of many nightmares. Creepy/unintentionally hilarious window displays are pretty much par for the course. The richly-embroidered hats were for sale in the Freedom Sportswear store. This store also had giant, fluorescent yellow sweatshirts that said the oddly specific “Seaside, OR Summer 2008”, or just had a silk-screened image of the holy crucifix. Flo yellow is not Jesus’ color. He’s more of an autumn, really.
Anyways, so we did end up getting some chowder and crab cakes at the Happy Clam.
After tasting samples of the clam and seafood chowders, I opted for the tangier seafood chowder, which included bay shrimp, chopped scallops and cod, in addition to clams (not sure if they were razor or littleneck). The waitress insisted there was no cheese in the soup, but there was definitely something about this chowder. Beer? Mustard powder? It tasted like a good cheddar and beer soup with seafood. The clam chowder was passable – nothing wrong with it, but not stellar.
This photo is a testament to the power of a well-composed shot. Not that I’m bragging. But this this is a handsome-looking plate of food, right? You’re drooling a little, I can see it from here. Unfortunately, looks are all it has going for it. The “crab cakes” were a complete travesty, a bastardization of a perfect food, and a disrespect to my Cancer brethren. The insult was that crab had been overworked and diluted with far too much breading. The injury was that the cakes were left for dead in a deep fryer until they turned to leaden pucks of MDF.
The food was really the least of the Happy Clam’s worries, though. When you come in, you first notice that the only people here are the two staff and one very young woman (probably the daughter of the waitress?) with her infant in a stroller. The walls are mostly bare, except for some sad-looking paint-by-numbers of broken boats and moorage, a neon Pabst sign and some fake houseplants. There are flies smacking into each other and the window. You just get the sense that this place is poor.
It did, however, provide us with a seat, a view, a beer and some chowder, without having to wait for a table. If you’re interested, their menu’s (sic) are available at their unsurprisingly design-challenged website, which actually does a much better job of summarizing the Happy Clam experience than any snarky blog post from an uppity city bitch .
The Happy Clam
21 N. Columbia
Seaside, OR
503.717.8900
This time, without pedophilia scandal! I know, I’m no fun. I participate (with tepid enthusiasm these days, sorry) on a gaming forum called f13.net in which I started Voodoolily’s Snacktastic Cooking Thread awhile back. Yesterday I saw the following post by a member: I get …
…or, Phoning it In Yes, that’s packaged ramen. For dinner. See? I can totally phone it in sometimes. And since I joined the Foodbuzz Challenge (as I’m calling it), my posts are going to continue to erode into the hastily-scrawled chicken scratch of a mad …
Portland is a brunch town. God help you if you want to eat some eggs on a Saturday morning. On weekends, even regular blue-collar lunch counters become “brunch places” packed with hipsters willing to wait an hour for some eggs and hash browns. Some places are worth the wait, sure, but if you’re more interested in food than in standing around with other hipsters, drinking Stumptown coffee, being seen, then head over to Clinton Corner Cafe.
I shouldn’t even be telling you about this place. One time we were starving on a Saturday (late) morning, and the audacity of Broder to expect us to wait for a table, just to eat adorable Ikea food, was fucking unbearable. The cruelty! I may have even been PMSing a little, because I think I yelled and almost cried. We went down Clinton a little further, around the corner from New Seasons, and like a beacon from the heavens, shone the Clinton Corner Cafe. We found it easily enough, on a blinking stoplight corner down the street from one hipster brunch clusterfuck, 26th and SE Clinton.

We had our choice of indoor and outdoor tables. It was pleasant out, so we sat outdoors. Anything to drink? Sure, why not a cup of coffee and a mimosa. The breakfast menu is the perfect size and has standard fare, including my eating-out-brekkie standby: the breakfast burrito. If I recall correctly, Scott had some French toast and bacon. I know this is going to sound back-handed, but they did such a good job of not fucking up, or further pissing me off when I was on the rag, that we went back a couple weeks later. And now we go damn-near every weekend. I consider it a good investment to become regulars at a neighborhood joint.
Yesterday we stopped by for late afternoon lunch. I had the Clinton Club, a double-decker of turkey, bacon, Swiss, lettuce and tomato on (I think) sourdough. I added avocado and stole the sliced red onion from Scott’s burger and fries. Linda, my lovely mother-in-law, is a perfect lady and ordered a half a BLT and a glass of the house white. My sammich was delicious, with good palate-scraping toasted bread and perfectly crispy-soggy fries (that’s my favorite way of a fry). Was Scott’s burger good, too? “Yeah,” he said.
We like the Clinton Corner Cafe for its lack of pretense and comfy neighborhood vibe. We love the Clinton Corner Cafe because it lets us cut the bullshit, and just sit right down to the business of eating honest, good food.
Clinton Corner Cafe
2633 SE 21st Ave
Portland, OR 97202
(503) 230-8035
www.clintoncornercafe.net
…or Having a Laugh (Are You Having a Laugh?) So, we all know that I love to cook, and have demonstrated a fair amount of competence in doing so. Proficiency, even, modestly put. Baking, however, is not my forte. Sure, my galettes are passable, but …
Mmm…doesn’t that sound good in that 100-degree weather we’re having? Piping hot, fresh-from-the-oven buttermilk biscuits slathered in creamy country gravy, flecked with cracked black pepper and spicy little bites of sausage. Mmm…refreshing. Okay, so I’m working through a bit of my backlog. We really did …
Okay, I really haven’t been around much, and I apologize for being such a flaky friend and not visiting enough. In my defense, I have been out of town for work, with a spotty-at-best wireless connection (I used the hotel lobby to reply to my comments on Thursday). Also, I have a huge backlog of food and photos to chat about by now, and I’m getting a wee case of The Daunteds. But I think I’m ready to come out from beneath that rock.
Corn is in season, as are some of my favorite seafoods – Dungeness crab, halibut, albacore. New Seasons must be paying attention, because they recently started carrying the most coveted of halibut cuts, the cheek. Frankly, the cheek is the best part of all animals (Hank from Hunter Angler Gardener Cook knows what I’m talking about). I’ll prove that later by showing you what I did with the smoked pork cheek from Pig Roast 2008. Oh, it is that good.
As much love as I have for New Seasons (I’m doing that thing where I pound my heart twice with my fist and throw out a sideways peace sign), their mussels can be kind of shitty. Remember how last time I said to be sure and check your shellfish? Well I didn’t remember to mention that this is really hard because they bag them in those little mesh bags, then wrap them up all pretty in brown butcher paper so you can’t see that no less than 20% of the mussels have broken shells (I counted!), or consist of nothing but broken shells. Why are they selling me broken, empty shells that I can pick up off the beach for free? The fuck.
Anyhoo, we’ve had a spot of cooler weather up here in good ol’ PNW, so I jumped at the chance to make a warm, buttery chowder, this time with fresh corn instead of frozen. Corn chowder is so good with a little seafood in it (remember the coho chowder I made for Black History Month?), especially the sweet, tender cheek of halibut and succulent mussels, both from the northern Pacific.
When you cut corn from the cob (or even after just eating it off), do yourself a favor and save up the cobs in a freezer bag until you have enough to fill a pot, then make corn cob broth by simmering these in some chicken stock for an hour or so. This broth is perfect for chowder and my chicken enchilada soup (“Sopa del Fuego“), and is probably just delicious to use for polenta.
To make this chowder, just make slight adjustments to the recipe from February, subbing fresh corn for frozen, corn cob broth for seafood stock, leaving out the Thai spices and jalapeño, and using cream instead of coconut milk. Add a pinch of saffron. At the very last moment, add the halibut cheek (cut into bite-sized pieces) and mussels, and hit it with some chopped flatleaf parsley. Soup is ready when the mussels are open. Serve with buttermilk biscuits and a clean, citrusy white (we had a Castelvero Piemonte Cortese 2007 – an unassuming, $9 Bianco that is extremely decent for the price and didn’t try too hard against the food).
Coming soon: What to do with leftover biscuits…
I have discovered a new toe-curl, and oh, darlings, are you ever gonna love this. Are you ready? Roasted tomato bechamel. “What are its uses?” you might be asking yourself. “What aren’t its uses,” I retort! The first is mac n chee, of course! With …