Lately

She Broke Breakfast

Had a nice chat with Amanda Mull from The Atlantic about why Americans tend to only eat certain stuff for breakfast. Check it out!

Tea-Smoked Quail with Ginger-Scallion Lo Mein

Find my recipe for this delectable quail dish at Nicky USA.

Cottage Cheese Dumplings with Ham and Fava Puree

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I had a nice, big hunk of @nueskes ham (picked up for a ✨song✨ at a @nicky.usa fire sale, leftover from Easter dinner), so I diced it up and tossed it in hot bacon fat with some cottage cheese dumplings that I quickly threw together — Ukrainian-style lenivye vareniki (Ленивые Вареники or “lazy” dumplings). The dumplings are a mix of tvorog (Russian farmer cheese) and homemade cottage cheese from a recipe test for @urbancheesecraft, plus an egg and enough flour to bring it together in a soft dough (rest, cut into dumplings, boil until they float then brown in a pan with hot fat). I served the dumplings on a nice purée of favas with kale, garlic, salad burnet, and the herbs from the earlier photo: lovage, parsley, mint, garlic chives, and thyme, and added a blob of sour cream, fresh dill and chervil. So many herbs!

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Naan Without a Recipe

(But I kind of wrote one anyway.) View this post on Instagram I’ve finally leveled up enough as a baker that I can throw together a naan or pita dough without a recipe, just on instinct and touch, and have warm flatbread in about a […]

Game Hen Ramen with Mayu

This black garlic oil is easy and dank af — get the recipe from Kenji Lopez Alt. View this post on Instagram Hoo, boy was this delicious. Maybe in the top five bowls of homemade ramen? This is iekei (“homestyle”) ramen inspired by the bowls […]

Plov is Georgian Jollof, Change My Mind

Is rice pilaf universal? I think so.

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Tonight’s dinner inspiration comes from Central Asia (one of my favorite culinary sandboxes), but with a few twists: this is plov (pilaf) of jasmine rice cooked with smoked duck stock, red onion, homegrown Jarrahdale pumpkin (a gorgeous blue-skinned variety), dried homegrown Chester blackberries (in lieu of barberries, to bring chewy tartness), toasted almonds, and chopped dates. I seasoned with dried marigold (aka Georgian saffron), coriander seed, cinnamon, turmeric, orange flower water, salt and pepper, then added some leftover Anderson Ranches lamb meatballs (that I pulled from the freezer yesterday) to warm through for the last five minutes, and topped with chopped cilantro, dill, and mint. It may be more autumny than springy, but it’s fragrant, complex and a fantastic one-pan meal.

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I Won A Writing Award

I am the proud recipient of the American Society of Journalists and Authors’ Outstanding Food and Drink Article award, for my story “Black Nightshade and Bierocks,” published in the Fall/Winter 2018 issue of Oregon Humanities Magazine. View this post on Instagram Tl;dr: I WON A […]

Bison-Okara Meatballs

View this post on Instagram How did I turn one measly pound of Nicky Farms ground bison into fourteen large meatballs? By cutting the meat by half with okara from Ota Tofu! After they extract all the soy milk, the pressed-out soy beans form a […]

Venison Mole Guisado

Find my recipe at the Nicky USA blog.

Pickled Things

A couple of different easy pickles for Taco Tuesday (or any day). For the escabeche, pretty much all you do is fill a 1-gallon crock 3/4 full with sliced jalapeños, peeled/sliced carrots, quartered peeled shallots, and peeled smashed garlic cloves, then add a few bay […]